Japanese beetles are ravaging Colorado gardens. Here are more tips to keep them out of your yard.

No way to sug­ar coat it: Japan­ese bee­tles (Popil­lia japon­i­ca) are ter­ri­ble for plants and gar­den­ers. And I mean Ter­ri­ble, with a cap­i­tal “T,” that rhymes with “D,” which stands for Dis­gust, Detest and Despise.

Count your bless­ings and enjoy each minute you have this sum­mer and every out­door grow­ing sea­son that your land­scape is most­ly JB free. Their plant-munch­ing march is mak­ing progress to new neigh­bor­hoods every year. The lat­est are in Jef­fer­son Coun­ty and com­mu­ni­ties north to Fort Collins.

I have had Japan­ese bee­tles in my yard for at least 10 years. The first cou­ple of years was not dif­fi­cult to man­age; it was easy to dunk and drown these iri­des­cent green-cop­per winged bee­tles into a small cup of soapy water in the morn­ing or evening. Each new gar­den­ing sea­son, how­ev­er, more insects arrived and I found my neg­a­tive atti­tude toward them became almost per­son­al. They vora­cious­ly ate my plants, and I detest­ed their intru­sion into my gar­den­ing enjoy­ment. What was I to do?

Please join me in a deep breath as we tack­le the under­stand­ing of how to man­age these small bee­tle beasts going for­ward. We are halfway through their sum­mer eat­ing car­nage, and there are deeds for their destruc­tion we still need to do.

Just the facts

Numer­ous online sources rec­om­mend prac­tices, sprays and trap­ping of Japan­ese bee­tles that sim­ply do not match the research of what actu­al­ly works for home­own­er man­age­ment. Avoid these sites if pos­si­ble; the false hope, time and mon­ey spent com­pared to the end results can be disappointing.

Japan­ese bee­tles arrived on the East Coast in 1916 and got well-estab­lished in a few decades before mov­ing to the Mid­west and even­tu­al­ly to Col­orado in the new cen­tu­ry. Gar­den­ers in these areas con­tin­ue to bat­tle them every sum­mer like we do; you may have grown up with them before com­ing to Colorado.

For­tu­nate­ly, there have been decades of uni­ver­si­ty and gov­ern­ment research on what meth­ods and prod­ucts pro­duce results, ie., few­er bee­tles. My atti­tude about deal­ing with Japan­ese bee­tles got much bet­ter once I under­stood what the experts learned and have shared with us.

Japanese beetle refresher

Japan­ese bee­tles have a one-year com­plete life cycle from egg, lar­va, pupa, adult. Adults usu­al­ly emerge from grass turf where they fin­ished their under­ground life cycle in June to ear­ly July. Once out of the ground, female bee­tles fly to near­by plants for a quick lunch before mat­ing (some­times they skip lunch and mate first).

Through their short life as adults (approx­i­mate­ly two months), females bur­row 3 inch­es down in the grass soil and lay up to 60 eggs (not all at once). They like well-irri­gat­ed lawns. Cool-sea­son grass­es like Ken­tucky blue grass, rye­grass and fes­cue — the major­i­ty of grass­es grown along the Front Range — are their pre­ferred turf for egg-lay­ing. Eggs grow to the white grub (lar­vae) stage in a cou­ple of weeks and will con­tin­ue grow­ing and liv­ing in turf roots until next spring, when they emerge as adults for the cycle to begin again.

Win­ter white grub kill from cold and snow is min­i­mal; to avoid severe cold, lar­vae will move deep­er in the soil, and do the same to find mois­ture in dry winters.

We know the dam­age that adult Japan­ese bee­tles cause: lacey chew­ing pat­terns on foliage, tear­ing and defo­li­a­tion on many flow­ers and fruits (over 300 plant species, includ­ing agri­cul­tur­al crops). The white grubs need to eat, too, so they dine on turf roots as they grow to their max­i­mum size and weight to help them sur­vive through the winter.

Adult Japan­ese bee­tles can fly up to 5 miles look­ing for more eat­ing oppor­tu­ni­ties in new neigh­bor­hoods. The volatile oils released from chewed plants attract more adults to the plants being eat­en. Their lives are sim­ple, real­ly: They are late-morn­ing loungers on plants, so they don’t get start­ed eat­ing, mat­ing and egg-lay­ing until it warms up lat­er in the morn­ing. They idle down again in the evening after sev­er­al hours of plant destruc­tion and pro­cre­ation. Morn­ing and evening, when they are slug­gish, are the best times to tap them into soapy water or sim­ply squish to your heart’s desire (I wear gloves).

Effec­tive­ly reduc­ing Japan­ese bee­tle num­bers in land­scapes every sum­mer requires address­ing both life stages: adult bee­tles on plants this sum­mer and their off­spring (white grubs or lar­vae) in lawns, next summer’s generation.

Garden practices to reduce adult and white grub numbers in August and early September

If you are to the point where adult Japan­ese bee­tle num­bers are out of con­trol, and drown­ing or hand crush­ing is no longer a work­able dai­ly option, con­sid­er oth­er con­trols. The non-chem­i­cal ones include remov­ing plants they devour and avoid plant­i­ng ones they will eat. Tak­ing out plants, even cool-sea­son lawn grass, is a big step and could be cost­ly and sad when you love the same plants they attack.

Plant cov­er­ings like bridal veil can work for the weeks in the sum­mer when they are doing the most dam­age. I cov­ered those options in a pre­vi­ous column.

RELATED: Japan­ese bee­tles are head­ing back to our gar­dens. Here’s how to fight them off.

Keep lawns taller (3 or more inch­es high) to deter female egg-lay­ing. Eggs need mois­ture to grow to the white grub stage. Keep­ing the lawn on the dri­er side dur­ing July and August can lead to egg mor­tal­i­ty. Be care­ful where tree roots are grow­ing under and through­out lawns; reduc­ing water too much can be a detri­ment to tree health. Resume reg­u­lar water­ing and maybe a bit more in Sep­tem­ber to help dry lawns recover.

Beetle traps

The pheromone lures in traps are high­ly attrac­tive and will draw in bee­tles from long dis­tances. But researchers say to not use them. Why bring more bee­tles to your yard and on your plants? I think traps are like offer­ing free, fresh-baked apple pie on the patio all sum­mer. Friends (bee­tles) will quick­ly show up for a piece or two, then invite some of their friends and neigh­bors to enjoy a slice. And then what hap­pens? They nev­er leave, since the word is out that your house is the place for free eats.

While it is grat­i­fy­ing to see the num­ber of dead bee­tles in the trap and tempt­ing to put one up each sum­mer, just say “no.”

It would make sense for every­one with a lawn impact­ed by Japan­ese bee­tles to con­sid­er killing laid eggs every sum­mer. This was the plan suc­cess­ful­ly car­ried out in Pal­isade a few years ago. They got ahead of the bee­tle and the pos­si­ble destruc­tion of their grape and peach industries.

They held plan­ning meet­ings that includ­ed busi­ness­es, munic­i­pal­i­ties, home­own­ers and state and local offi­cials. The plan agreed upon by all res­i­dents and enti­ties includ­ed the use of prod­ucts to kill adult bee­tles, eggs and lar­vae. Lawns were watered less where fea­si­ble. Bee­tle traps were used to keep track of where severe out­breaks were hap­pen­ing and to gauge when the num­bers had waned enough to declare the pro­gram a suc­cess. (Read more about their erad­i­ca­tion plan here.)

Will the Pal­isade mod­el of rid­ding Japan­ese bee­tles work in metro Den­ver, or any­where else along the Front Range where they have tak­en hold areas? Prob­a­bly not. Our urban areas pro­vide a ban­quet of plants they like to eat. Our irri­ga­tion prac­tices are nec­es­sary to keep our lawns grow­ing and green through hot sum­mer months. We have set the table for them with a very hos­pitable place for their survival.

There are a hand­ful of effec­tive rec­om­mend­ed adult bee­tle and grub con­trol prod­ucts on the mar­ket for home­own­er pur­chase at gar­den cen­ters and online. Licensed lawn care and land­scape com­pa­nies also offer Japan­ese bee­tle man­age­ment ser­vices. Use cau­tion with prod­ucts, since some can harm pol­li­na­tors and ben­e­fi­cial insects. Apply prod­ucts late in the day when the good bugs have gone home for the night. For researched insec­ti­cide and bio­log­i­cal con­trol options, click here.

Apply lawn prod­ucts through mid-August to kill eggs and young lar­vae. Most prod­ucts will be effec­tive for sev­er­al weeks, so only one lawn treat­ment is need­ed per sum­mer. Use care and read all pack­age instruc­tions before apply­ing lawn prod­ucts to treat white grubs. Pro­tect bees by first mow­ing away bloom­ing white clover or dan­de­lions in lawns before treatment.

When the final Japan­ese bee­tle has fall­en dead some­time in Sep­tem­ber, smile and enjoy the rest of the fall sea­son. There is hope on the far hori­zon to bat­tle this rav­en­ous foe with the con­trolled release of three ben­e­fi­cial agents that specif­i­cal­ly tar­get Japan­ese bee­tles and white grubs. I’ll be writ­ing more on this soon; stay tuned.

More beetle resources

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